To the Colon, the Canal...the Pacific!

"A man, a plan, a canal, Panama..."
Is one of the world's most famous palindromes: you can read it forwards and backwards!
Panama's area is 74,177.3 kmsq (NZ is 3.6 times the size, according to madaboutpanama.com). Their population is 4,052,481 with nearly half living in the capital, Panama city.
As our cruising guide described, the first thing you'll notice coming down the coast, that you're nearing the Colon entrance of the Canal, are the fleet of ships anchored outside the breakwater, awaiting their transit.  From a distance, they almost appear to be anchored in a line on the horizon. Massive cranes and other port objects came into view and Eli asked, "Is this the entrance up here Dad?"
"No, no, this is the port before the Canal, we've still got a way to go." Five or 10 minutes pass, I say, "That looks a lot like the 30 metre lights on the breakwater mentioned in the guide"..no, still a way to go. There's a ship leaving the entrance, it seems slow, but due to previous experience, it looks that we wont have time to pass in front. While were discussing whether to turn to port, towards the entrance, or starboard, away from entrance, but also towards the same direction the ship is heading, it suddenly appears remarkably close. (At least it's not night time!). Dave quickly turns off the auto-pilot and turns to starboard while Eli and I, from the safety of the cockpit, try to sheet in the roller furler that is flapping madly about from the sudden turn into the wind.

A little too close for our liking!

The ship comes powering past as we do a full 360, then go back to our course.  Another ship comes powering up in front of us and heads toward the entrance as Eli makes another comment about whether that is the Colon entrance. Dave, frustrated at having to repeat himself, grabs the tablet with the navionics map to prove his point. It shows our boat outside Isla Naranjos, a number of miles back. Somehow, the chart had stopped tracking! I quickly went below retrieving my phone off charge, brought the charts up, only to discover that yes, we had just sailed straight past the entrance!!
Another u-turn and all of a sudden, our tranquil cruising downwind turned into a raucous as the boat lurched up and down into the wind, jerking side to side as we rolled over the seas, which always feel bigger when you have to punch into them!  I called up the Cristobal signal station requesting permission to enter the breakwater, thankfully were given the all-clear.

The canal entrance area on a nice still day!

We had planned to anchor in the busy Colon port area of Club Nautico, which is close to the cruise ship docks and a not so good neighborhood, requiring us to paddle ashore and taxi everywhere for safety reasons. After this ordeal, Dave made the call, we're heading to the marina, "I need to relax." Luckily I had previously enquired of any vacancies and being low season there was space available. We motored along the breakwater, super cautious of the shallowness on that side, but also the reef on the other side that we had been forewarned. (We had previously plotted a course for the marina, as another option). Called up the dockmaster, receiving instructions for entering the narrow marina alonside the mangroves.

Boatyard out back of marina, surrounded by lush rainforest.

Turned out to be a great decision.  Being the low-season meant that for a little extra, we could stay for a week, rather than a few days, focus on jobs for canal and get some better sleep, not waking often to check on whether we're dragging anchor.  But just for a bit of excitement, reading the marina brochure, they advise to keep a look out for crocs cruising between boats after 9pm!!

Our nice admeasurer Jose.

We could get our paperwork done and the admeasurer was out to see us next morning. Once again we were welcomed and encouraged by lots of great people, while "cooling off" (not really!) in the pool and there were quite a few kids around.
The free shopping bus trip into Colon was awesome, we had to drive past old military buildings from the war and through the military checkpoint.

Photo courtesy of sailcetacean.com

Lush rainforest meets the road until we have to stop and wait for traffic: boats entering the Canal!  Once through, we then drive right past the first lock.. (apologies for bad photos using phone through bus window)..

Driving at water level past the lock, a little unnerving
seeing water seeping through some gaps!

Over top of canal operations, notice ship in 2nd lock ahead.

Then zigzag through a myriad of buildings and operations, over top of the lock system, feeling like we were in the midst of a real-life mouse trap game.
We pop out the other side, back into rainforest, short time after, arriving into a spaghetti junction/4 lane highway that we cross over to the shopping area.
One return trip home, we even got to travel across the canal on a car ferry.
With all our paperwork and fees paid for (shopping bus could drop us at bank), we nervously made the phone call after 6pm as instructed, to find out our transit date. The man, speaking very good English said the earliest we could do it was..Sunday..in two days???!!!! (we're not ready for that, literally or mentally!) How about Wednesday? I countered.
"Oh yes, that should be fine, just call up the night before, July 11th to confirm"
Goodness gracious, we are actually doing this!!

Checking out jungle clad ex-war
buildings near marina.

I've been pretty darn excited about the prospect of Panama and the Canal ever since we bought the boat. I'm sure the nervousness will kick in closer to the time. Dave is quietly nervous, but handling it very well, working through the jobs. It's been really nice bouncing things off other cruisers. Met a few Kiwis even, having a rather funny, entertaining but also very informative evening with one lot of very experienced cruiser/racers.
The week disappeared very quickly making a start on grocery provisioning, refuelling and filling water tanks.
Dave and I managed to sneak in a small jungle walk while the kids made the most of their friend/screen/pool time.

Finally got to see the howler monkeys.

Dave braving the bats: constantly flying between two doorways straight past his head!-note bat blur on right wall!

In amongst all this, Eli turned 15! Dave and I are immensely proud of this guy, he has been such a pleasure to have in our lives and has blown us away with his transformation in maturity and attitude.

Eli

That evening at a cruisers' get-together, one family caught wind of the news and managed to arrange a large tub of icecream to be delivered from a cruise ship, as a celebration gift! We also found out only 6 weeks prior, three 3m crocs had been wandering around that very bbq area!
Canal day arrived, we had our lines and tyre/fenders already delivered, our linehandlers had arrived and so had a rather large crew of friends to see us off.  The kids were yelling constant goodbyes, friends were waiting to untie our lines, I switched on the key...nothing.  Checked the switches, tried again, nothing.  "Um, Dave, can you take a look at this." There was so much noise from the kids, no-one noticed, Dave fiddled about, managed to get it in the correct sweet spot and fired the engine to life..phew, no pressure!  We meandered out at snail pace, the poor marina occupants listening to constant goodbyes from the kids running about the the finger slips, following us out! We motored a short distance, half hour or so to the industrial side of Colon to the "flats" anchorage where we waited for our advisor to be delivered by boat.
Just to give you a better overview, here's  a picture from AMP:

From Colon (Cristobal on the map), to Balboa is 39.5 miles.

Image: slideshare.net

3.30pm our advisor arrived and we followed a catamaran through the traffic up to the first lock, tying together shortly beforehand.
We followed a massive ship that had just passed us, then a tug snuggled in behind us.

Bit of traffic to keep us actively observant.

The monkey fists got thrown to us from the men on the  land, which were attached to our lines.

An alarm goes off, the massive iron doors close and the water starts to churn into the chamber, as we watch the water level rapidly rise, Eli suddenly yells out..shark! We'd heard of crocodiles being the only ones to get a free pass through the canal, but Eli and Eden definitely saw a shark about 3 metres long.

The black bridge underneath slides out to cross; this is where we travelled across by bus.

As we rose, the ropes holding us in place had to be constantly adjusted.  Once at the top, the doors opened. The men on land pulled us along with ropes, having to climb a steep set of stairs to reach the next chamber.

Trains pull the large ships through while men walk us along, up the steep hill!

During this time, the catamaran was driving the two of us, while I adjusted the throttle according to the advisors' directions.
While sitting at the helm, I noticed out the window, Dave's legs at the edge of the boat, and on the other boat, many sets of legs, all milling around Dave, he seemed to have become the star attraction!  They were asking lots of questions about what we were doing and did we have a generator (no) and a watermaker (no), they'd look at the paint flaking off the decks and say, "oh, yes, it does need a bit of work!"

Tied up together.

The group were chartering the boat, with a young Aussie Captain and stewardess taking them through. Then one of them came out with souvenir teeshirts for Dave and I! The next two locks were thankfully fairly uneventful, but also very enjoyable.  Once out of the last lock, we untied, motored about 20 minutes into the Gatun Lake where our advisor skilfully jumped ship to go home.

Celebration in the lake.

Our linehandlers stayed on for the night, having dinner pre-made, we enjoyed the sunset, drinks and semi-conversations of mixed Spanish and English.

Sunrise looking out our bedroom port over Gatun Lake:
Surreal moment.

Up early, preparing apple yoghurt muesli, expecting the advisor to arrive at 7.30am, it was 9.30am by the time we left, due to some delay in the canal.

Eden has breakfast on the rubber buoy and watches massive ship leave the new canal into the lake.

The catamaran had left about an hour before, which ended up working in our favour: we got to take the more scenic "banana cut", shaving off about a half hour or so. Dave took over the helm for an hour while I prepared lunch, then I jumped back on it. This combination works best for us as I am quite comfortable driving, while Dave prefers to be taking all the details into consideration to make clear decisions and directions, to me at the helm.

We were praying it wouldn't rain for our canal transit, mostly out of concern of visibility. A tall order in Panama, during rainy season, where thunder and lightening are a daily occurrence. It did rain, actually, it poured, but I could see anywhere between 2 and five markers ahead. There was some pretty intense thunder and lightening overhead also!
We did get to see a large crocodile on the muddy bank, which was very exciting and made for a good side track to forget about the weather.  A massive ship was closing in on us, 500m, 300m, then backed off. I was also praying for visibility to enjoy the view of sailing under the Centenario bridge, which it did.

Gold hill in the Gaillard cut.

Centenario bridge.

We found out later that because of the lack of visibility, the large ship behind had to ease right back, which actually set us up better for the next set of locks, catching up with the cat and tying alongside them again as they cheered and clapped!

Pedro Miguel Lock sitting up at the top..

Love this shot my brother in law took of us from the canal camera website..thanks Johnny.

This set of locks had us going down and it was weird looking down over the gate into the Pacific.

Hello Pacific! 

I suddenly felt rather teary, the reality of all our years of planning and hard work had actually brought us from the Caribbean to the Pacific, we almost had our boat on the right side of the world at long last!

At the helm.

While waiting for the large ship to get set up and meet us in the lock, I was also very fortunate to have constant communication with family on whatsapp, as they watched us on the cameras online, further adding to the rather surreal experience.

At the bottom, all drained out!

Watching our depth sounder, we were at 75 feet at the first lock, we dropped down to about 54 feet, the gates opened and by the time we reached the next lock gate, we were at 75 feet again!

The water going out was very subtle, we motored out of the last lock, untied from the catamaran, then followed the buoys out of the busy harbour and under the bridge of the Americas - joining South America to Central and North America.

Bridge of the Americas.

Our advisor kindly complemented me on doing a good job before leaving on his pilot boat ride.

We were in the Pacific.  But that will have to wait till next time..thanks for reading.

A 40th in Panama

It's interesting how a boat can change you. Never would I have imagined my birthday wish list would solely consist of:
1) a toilet base
2) a working outboard!!
As expected and forecasted, after a few hours of leaving Colombia under 4 sails, the wind died. Impatient sailors that we are, on went the engine.

Awesome shot by Eli.

I've noticed a pattern with our last two sails in our moods: first few hours all happy, anticipating new port, new country, new friends and maybe some old. Later that evening or the next day, tend to get a bit anxious, fear of the unknown, and the uncertainty.

Leaving Colombia.

For the next three days we were met with alot of thunderstorms, mainly at night, and a glassy sea with a comfortable swell. As Ula cut through the milky sea, pushing waves either side of her hull, the dark nights revealed sparkling phosphorus that was mesmerizing to watch.
 The downwind motion was very pleasant considering we had to motor for 3 days and three nights. This turned out to be another test of our trust in Ula's abilities. The first 12 hours or so, I felt a little concerned about the engine running for so long and whether it could handle the duration. Next day I came to the realisation this is what engines are designed for and came to trust, relax and fully appreciate our very reliable Perkins.
Our auto pilot was on form also, thankfully.
One night, while on watch, there was a buzzing sound next to my leg. At first I thought it was my phone on vibrate but realized it was on my lap. Foolishly putting my hand down to the noise, it was met with a slimy, wriggling feeling, soon after accompanied by a rather fishy smell..

Flying fish next to my seat! (Apologies for phone
camera quality and blur!).

When my watch had finished, went down to the saloon cabin floor to sleep. (While at sea we've found it's the most still, being the centre of the boat. A yoga mat we scavenged, topped with a couple of bean bags and pillows on top, wedged between the fridge and settee means we can't roll around too much!). Just starting to unwind when I hear that familiar noise again..and the smell, this time right next to the fridge and my pillow! With incredible acrobatic skill and possibly suicidal tendencies, this fish had managed to fly up over our boat and in through the opening of our butterfly hatch!

Eden's entertaining antics, using the top of a chip packet!

Strapped into galley, preparing a meal.

This was the first trip Salem hadn't been sick, was venturing about more and eating well. What a relief.
Had a rather low fly-over a couple of times. No radio contact this time asking for our details like the copter did when we were sailing into Curacao three years ago.

Eli's shot.

 The second to last day we had the awesome privilege of being visited by a large pod of dolphins.

Stoked to be on sunrise watch as we followed the coastline of Panama heading into Portobello.

The hilly, coastline covered densely with trees and the odd patch of grass resembling my hometown coastline of the Coromandel Peninsula. Except for the scattering of banana and coconut trees!

Entering Portobello. 

Entering the harbour with a massive ship anchored to our starboard side, the boys on the bowsprit suddenly yelled as they pointed, "Mum, mast!" Dave looked over and sure enough, about 2 metres below, stood a mast looking woefully, up at us!
Anchor didn't seem to be holding until a man dingied over and said, "if you are having some difficulty, there is a sunken boat about here, I recommend you move elsewhere!"

Second attempt proved to be much more successful, with a view of one of the forts, shortly before the torrential rain began.
Welcome to the rainy season of Panama!

Portobello was discovered by Christopher Columbus on November 2nd 1502 on his fourth trip. Becoming the Caribbean transshipment center for transferring Central and South American riches, due to its convenient location and decent harbour.

From 1574-1702, forty-five fleets of galleons were sent forth, none carrying less than 30 million pesos of riches each. This was too good an opportunity for the likes of pirates like Henry Morgan who, with an assault troop of 460 men, he managed to take Portobello, raping and pillaging.

Apparently warehouses were so full at one stage, fine
silver and gold could be seen running down the streets
when it rained!

Counter attacks and negotiations were unsuccessful and Morgan demanded the payment of 100,000 pesos in order to not destroy the population. (According to the Panama cruisers guide).

 
Were awoken by a ghastly noise, almost like wind howling down through the trees, but the more it went on, we began to notice the animalistic nature of it, like a deep wolf or bear sound (not that we've actually heard them in real life!). Figured out it was the howler monkeys, calling out to each other across the bay, more often when rain is coming.

Image: wikimedia

Spent a few days exploring then headed 20 miles to Linton.

Meandering in and out of boats in the pass between the mainland and Isla Linton, got a bit confused with the wood pilings marking out the shallow areas. Thankfully the boys were on the bowsprit when they suddenly yelled out "Mum, reverse, reverse"!! Threw the lever into reverse and floored it..straight off the mud bank (whew!).

Somebody said once that every sailor grounds once, so I'm claiming that as hopefully the one and only. Glad it wasn't coral or rocks. We got our cruising permit then motored a couple of miles over to Isla Grande where we were hoping to find surf.

Isla Grande.

Just got anchor laid out, went to reverse hard to make sure anchor was well set.. but had no power: reverse or forward, nothing. Only an hour or so before we had read a message from a friend back in Bonaire that they were expecting an unusually low tropical storm heading their way. This was a little unnerving cos while we were in Portobello a sailor had mentioned an unusual storm last year hitting and grounding 18 boats. This whole area is out of the "hurricane belt" but obviously abnormalities occur.
So here we were, no power, wondering if we were going to get hit with strong winds and if so was our anchor set well enough?!

Water taxis bringing ladies with their umbrellas to the mainland town of La Guaira.  Isla Grande to the right.

We were in a fairly isolated part so couldn't row ashore to the mainland to find parts.
We spent the next few days trouble shooting: managed to catch water taxi ashore, found helpful diesel mechanic selling boat parts and most importantly, transmission oil. Checked fuel, changed filter, checked morse cable for gearing: snap! Thats exactly what had happened.
Weather was the usual Panama: intermittent sunshine and thunderstorms, but thankfully nothing more than that.
Explored the very touristy Isla Grande..

Statue of Black Christ. 

Surf!!

Swings at the bar, but you have to pay to enter premises.

It appeared to us that only a handful were living there.  A number of local mainland erst would get ferried across to clean the holiday houses or restaurants then get ferried home at lunchtime.

Dave and Eli managed a few surfs, the reef wasn't ideal for the rest of us and Eli came away nursing burnt feet from the fire coral!

Paddle ashore then run down to the point, around the corner.

Managed to crawl our way at 2knots back through Isla Linton to Puerto Lindo so we could row ashore to get necessary resources.  Managed to catch a ride with some other cruisers to a nearby outboard mechanic at panamarina.  Which consisted of a dinghy ride through the mangrove passage..

The green gourds make a 1litre bottle look small!

Eden trying out the boom swing.

While waiting for cables and outboard -which couldn't be fixed- Dave installed some more solar panels to help out our batteries (one of the reasons for autopilot failing and causing Colombian transit).
Met some nice Brazilians who kindly took Dave and Eli to outer reef for some surf sessions, again not so suitable for the younger ones.

Isla Mamei.

Sourced and installed the cable, and then...
I turned 40!! Had a delicious lunch with fresh juices. Were going to hike to a waterfall but it poured down over lunch and wasn't much keen for a mud slide!

Had a really nice evening with our cruising friends.

Spot Dave paddling ashore to pick me up..went for an
enjoyable ride on nicely paved road through jungle to nearby mini-market.

The day we were to leave, discovered a mouse had eaten into five milk bottles and it was draining into our bilges! We think the stowaway came on either at the marina in Colombia or swam out?!
Got it all cleaned up then were invited out for a bbq, on a large wooden, Polynesian style catamaran/outrigger. We all huddled under the tarp from the rain but had a nice fire, yum food and great company.

Inside the amazing catamaran.

Summarising our days, glossing over the details, it all sounds very idyllic, I admit, but we have definitely had a lot of frustrating, overwhelming, stressful moments trying to figure out the various, constant issues, how to source parts, where things are just done differently and with the added language barrier. Mixed with the ever present background doubts of enough money/mental capacity to take on the big step of the pacific crossing.
We were edging closer, heels semi digging in like a kid in a supermarket screaming and tantruming, "I dont want to!" but at the same time having a deep down knowing that is what we need to keep pushing towards.

Puerto Lindo and the creepy vulture looking birds.

Massive pig wallowing as we trip-trapped over bridge.
Check out normal sized pig in background for comparison! 

The large, super friendly, mango
munching dog: mango pips spread all
through the workshop from his
over-indulging habits! 

 Next day discovered more leaky, milky bilges, cleaned up, started engine, hoisted anchor, then, no power. Re-anchored. This was tough, the third setback trying to leave, having just made good friends, knowing more surf was forecast for the upcoming week, should we really be going?
Hours later, Dave managed to figure out the problem and we hopped back down to Portobello, just in time to dinghy ashore and check out Fort San Lorenzo Battery before dark.

Workers playing football.

Crossing onto fort.

While anchorage looks idyllic now, decent winds tend to howl through and there's alot of rain here.  Best night we'd had in a while after last rocky anchorage.

I suspect bird in tree is the
Panamanian Eagle.

With only 20 miles, to go, maybe tomorrow we will finally get to Colon to get measured for the Canal.

Sunset, Isla Grande.